44 Nights in Paris: Field Trips

To be a writer in Paris felt like a call from the divine to me – thanks in part to the personal anecdotes of Sarah Ban Breathnach, one of my favorite authors.

I originally intended to spend weeks in France with my precious little Renata and her family, and that idea got derailed before I made any arrangements. My angels whispered you need to be somewhere else.

After three glorious weeks in splendid Scotland and England, I landed in Paris on 1 December, and immediately felt at home. I had a spacious apartment in Paris for 44 nights. It felt like a sign, 4 being an angel number and all.

My intention was to cook, and to write. Since the weather was usually cloudy or rainy, I felt all the more inspired to do just that. Soon after I arrived, however, I heard a nagging voice telling me you’re in Paris, for gods’ sake, you should be doing more! It made me feel very less than, and sad.

What I tend to do when I hear this kind of voice, is notice the should, which is a word I consciously try not to use. Then I try to be as gentle as I can with myself, to have a look at this advice.

It helped a lot to chat this up with Lydie, who promised me that locals in Paris don’t go sightseeing every day, or do stuff, other than what’s in front of them; they’re busy with life! She assured me that I came to Paris to be a local, and I was very good at just that. Very soon that nagging voice hushed itself.

Having seen most of the big sites in Paris on my first visit, in 2007 with Antoine as my extraordinary local guide, I wasn’t compelled to race everywhere and do that again. I did want to see the Louvre, the Wall of Love in Montmartre, and return to Bastille especially. Also, as a writer in Paris, I felt very drawn to the iconic Shakespeare and Company bookstore and café.

As I did not write some of my Paris stories – like this one – in real time as in, on that day – what I am going to share here, is a short bit about a few of the field trips I did take on the few days that the weather was agreeable. On the other days – in the rain, very often - some of my most cherished field trips were to the fromagerie, the petits supermarches, the boulangeries, patisseries, the herb store, the boucherie (butcher), and Le Marche’ Bastille ... to explore and buy food.

The Louvre and Cafe' Marly

I have always been in awe of the pyramid entrance to the Louvre. I timed my visit perfectly, so that I could have breakfast at Café’ Marly just outside the museum. Magnifique! All of it, including that café experience. My favorite paintings were of Mother Mary and Archangel Gabriele (whom I call her wing girl). My favorite sculptures were of the ancient goddesses, especially Diana/Artemis and Aphrodite. Much attention is given to these girls, I loved it. Leaving the museum, there is a splendid mall of shops where I had the best time, my first gift shopping experience in Paris.

Le Marche’ Noel, St Michel

The idea of a Christmas Market in Paris sounded divine! It was my first night out alone in the center so, note to self – next time, do well to avoid the metro at rush hours! Le Marche’ was small, very sweet, and it was fun to browse. I treated myself to duck confit for dinner at a bistro nearby and saw Notre Dame in the dark for the first time – awe-inspiring. I strolled around St Michel, I love this sweet spot in Paris.

The Wall of Love and Sacre Coeur, Montmartre

Montremartre was the first place Antoine took me in 2007 because we both love the film Amelie. I loved that field trip better (in the warm spring) than this one. For a cold, drizzly January day, there were way more people crowding near me than I cared for. I patiently waited to view The Wall – lovely – and Sacre Coeur for which the 1000+ steps to arrive, were well worth it.

Shakespeare and Company

Another cold January day favorite, apparently. This time I arrived when the Café’ opened, sat in the window with a view of Notre Dame to write in my journal, so it was a sweet experience. I took my time to explore the quirky, iconic bookstore and bought one of their few cookery books; it was getting very crowded. Then I shopped a tiny designer boutique up the street for new clothes ... a great morning!